Generation Z is having a profound effect on how fashion brands
engage with their customers. They prefer shopping brands that share
common values. And they are demanding more transparency from brands
regarding material sourcing, pricing, environmental impact and labor
practices, in order to make purchase decisions.
More and more, Gen Z customers also prefer brands that take a stand
on social justice and political issues; topics which brands have
typically avoided. After all, one misstep may lead to being
cancelled–leading to unwanted press, boycotts and impacting
sales.
However, because of its higher price point and its focus on a more
mature customer demographic, luxury fashion has not had to deal with
this issue as directly as more accessible brands. Sure, there have
been plenty of mishaps that have led to negative press, such as the
recent Dior, Gucci and Marni fiascos, but these largely blew over.
What’s more, luxury brands have always been in the business of
creating an escape from the real world, creating products that are
more about desire than need. Brands such as Chanel and Hermes have
been carefully crafting their images for decades, carefully
cultivating an aura of mystery and authenticity–myth-making at its
best–and certainly the opposite of transparency and true
authenticity.
Luca Marchetti, cultural analyst, semiotician and co-founder of The
Prospectivists in Paris, agrees that “On a general level, yes, these
concepts are in some ways contradictory with the traditional vision of
luxury, in Europe at least.” He continues, “Even if, historically,
this field was built on the highest quality and excellence, its
desirability is culturally rooted in opacity and the aura projected
around products. Transparency was not an option.”
And he points out that during the the first Covid lockdown in
Paris, many brands announced they would forego large fashion week
productions, and focus on more ecological, ethical and sustainable
issues. Less than six months later that ethos has already changed.
Luca reflects, “Now, we see that markets are still buying a lot! And
they want to see the “grandeur” in real time. So, big shows are back
for many of the luxury houses.”
However, this short term response may have long term effects, as
luxury fashion houses cater more and more to younger customers with
more affordable products and streetwear-inspired styles. The pandemic
has created an inflection point. “Not so fast,” states Luca. “The
market is extremely fragmented today, and so is society. Younger
audiences are much more aware and flexible as for their choices, not
to mention that they don’t prioritize, nor do they exclude, social
competition signifiers in order to express social progression.” He
continues, “So yes, more and more, smaller luxury brands are playing
on the grounds of transparency, inclusivity and diversity.
Nonetheless, even if the larger luxury brands are more and more
interested in attracting younger audiences, they can still rely on an
older global consumer to grant them temporary prosperity, without
having to imagine a massive system change.”
What’s more, these luxury brands operate on a global scale with
myriad nuanced cultural and political issues. Stepping into a social
debate centered in the U.S. could backfire in Europe, or China,
especially around issues that the brand has very little connection
with. And yet, as a more diverse group of consumers begin buying
luxury goods, taking a stand may be unavoidable, especially in a world
driven by social media and disruptors like DietPrada. Luca believes
this is partly a mediatic effect, or a new code of communication. He
says, “it’s good to debate, it’s good to show good will, etc. However,
behaviors change more slowly. There is always a time gap, a delay,
between the emergence of new imaginaries who represent collective
values in the media and consumption behaviours.” He punctuates this
with: “This is the difference between the “individual” and the
‘consumer,’ which we all are. As individuals, we don’t behave in the
same way we do as consumers.”
So what we can expect from luxury brands in the future? Luca
replies, “Real change will come, when it will be an obligation. It
will just be harsher and even more expensive.”