First there was bumping music, then came strobe lights as mirrored glass cubes lit up to display the full-size bust statues inside, and then emerged the opening look of Francesco Ragazzi’s first Palm Angels show in New York. The Palm Angels man (and woman) is a raver at heart but for fall, NYC influenced Ragazzi to inject a more sophisticated, sleek vibe into the lineup. Backstage before the show, he called it “an autobiography collection because it’s a mix of my biggest inspirations: sportswear, ‘sartoriality.’”
Ragazzi drew from men’s wear heritage classics such as military uniforms and utility references from the great outdoors. For the men’s, a sharp double-breasted sleeveless blazer over tie-dyed fitted cargoes was a favorite uniform reference, while a multipocket cargo jacket with matching pants brought survival-utility fashion to the forefront. Pocket chains and medals atop trim blazers paired with athletic striped midi or quilted miniskirts rounded out the idea in his women’s wear. Oversize, tie-dyed streetwear tees with alien or “sensitive content” eye graphics nicely contrasted with his tight and short leather, “Matrix”-esque offerings for the girls.
The combination of the scarf print and the traditional hunting camouflage pattern created the perfect tension between high and low. The same could be said for the perfectly tailored camel coat with a matching fisherman vest or his twist on a Realtree camouflage printed long-sleeve shirt under a scarf printed slip dress and acid green fisherman utility belt.
Palm Angels RTW Fall 2019
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